Thursday 8 September 2011

INCREDIBLE !NDIA - Whispering Valley

After the hectic overnight travel from Delhi to Manali (More than 500 KMs) through NH1 and NH21 we checked in to our hotel at around 1:00PM. All of the
Mall Road
of Manali was completely dig up by MC dept. for sewer work which dampened our mood a bit. But we were too tired for anything and opted for an afternoon nap.

If Manali had been approachable by rail then it had been great for tourists and for the local business. But the nearest broad gauge railheads are at Chandigarh (315 km) and Kalka (310 km). The nearest narrow gauge railhead is at Joginder Nagar (135 km). The nearest airport is at Bhuntar, which is about 50 km from Manali. So for us Volvo Bus was the only good option which turned out to be very torturous.

After having bath and a late lunch we moved out for an evening walk to the mall road. But the evening walk was made difficult because of this mess created by MC and the weekend rush of tourist. Less than 30% of the space is left for walking rest all is converted into big pits by the cranes. So we decided to sit in an open air restaurant and enjoy the Mall road evening from there only. This was an Italian restaurant so there obvious best will be Pasta’s and we ordered same. While we were waiting for the order my eyes stuck at an old man wearing formals and old DevAnand style cap sitting on a bench in the park in front of the restaurant. He seemed to be a local guy from to Manali. As of my habit I took time from Neiha and moved towards that old man for a small chat.

“Excuse me Sir, can I join you” I asked politely. And he just nodded without saying any word and I sat beside him on the wooden table.

“Hello Sir, you seem to be a localite here” I started conversation after few seconds wait.

“Yes, I belong to kullu city and living here in Manali from last 40 years.” He took a long pause. “I have two hotels here and own a restaurant also.” The good/bad thing about old people is once they open up and start talking they don’t stop.

“Where are you from?” He inquired a bit about me and then after seeing my curiosity he started telling me about the history of Manali.

“Manali belongs to the Kullu district and situated at an altitude of 8612 feet” He laughed after seeing my surprised expressions.

“Sir, If somebody ask me about my home town Patiala I won’t even be able to tell him its distance from delhi and you know the altitude of Manali” I questioned.

“I was a tourist guide. I started my life journey at a young age as a tourist guide in seventies. Allow me to tell you in detail……. If you have time”

“Yes, of course” I looked at Neiha. Pasta’s have arrived at our tables, but I found this conversation more interesting than the Italian pasta’s.

“Manali is all about natural beauty. But modern day Manali history belongs more precisely to the Britishers. They made this beautiful land their choice for staying during the summer months. They brought forth the apple orchards and trout fishing to Manali that largely shaped the economy of this place. It was the British people settling here, which developed Manali as a tourist destination” His knowledge about Manali and way of telling made sure that he has been a tourist guide for quite long. Neiha was calling me with strong gestures but I ignored them and concentrated on this interesting conversation.

“My father was a farmer, we had small farm near Kullu itself. Now, even I can’t find that place because it is submerged in Kullu city and our farm land has lost its existence in the modernization” He continued and I was thinking if this beautiful valley has taken a toll of modernization then why we are blaming it for its toll on metros…….. That’s quite obvious.

“The hills of Manali offer stunning landscape so it was a hot spot for the tourism from the start. Basic business of local people here is the tourism, rich people had hotels, restaurants, apple orchards etc. and the one like us became tourist guides.” He sipped some water from its sipper bottle and continued.
“During the seventies and Eighties Manali was stained with the cultivation of marijuana that attracted the development of a hippie culture that was looked down by the conventional tourists. Even youngsters like us followed suit and indulge in those unlawful activities. But with government’s sharp steps and laws it all went down slowly. Still there are places in Manali and around which are popular among the foreigners for there hippie culture.” He drove into silence as if he gets lost in his past memories.

“With the rise of turmoil in the Kashmir valley, the tourists turned to Manali again as the landscape and beauty of the two places matches each other.” He paused for a bit again this time to catch his breath.

“I worked really hard to reach the position where I am today. I had never been to school have no education but literate enough to decide the right and wrong. Initially I worked as a tourist guide in Kullu then shifted to Manali and today I have 2 hotels, a restaurant and a big apple orchard. And my fellows who didn’t come out of the unlawful activities then are nowhere now.” He became bit emotional remembering his old times.

On my question about the Name of Manali he replied like a well educated person. I must say experience matters a lot.

“Manali history is just like a fairy tale that is more in myth than in reality. The existence of Manali can be traced back to the times of Mahabharata. The name 'Manali' literally means the abode of Manu (The god of Law). Manali is the place where Manu found refuge. Back in the 17th century, Raja Jagat Singh brought the idol of Lord Raghunathji to his throne and till now, he is the presiding deity and king of Manali”

“The colorful tales and saga of the mythological existence of Manali will remain in the heart of the lovely innocent people of the Manali” Few minutes of silence and a big smile covers his wrinkled face.

“OK beta, its time now. I will move” He stood up and without waiting for my good bye he moved out of the park. May be he gets emotional and wants to go deep into his memories and enjoy them alone.

The end of the meeting was so fast and abrupt that I didn’t get time to ask his name. But surely will remember him for always.

The dark was spreading around and the beautiful oil lamps in the park were put into life spreading the yellow all around. Neiha had already left for a stroll in the Tibetan market just adjacent to the restaurant; I joined her hurriedly with a big smile on my face. Now I was feeling more familiar to the valley and it seems like every nook and corner of it was whispering his story in my ears.

1 comment:

  1. hey manali reminded me of my trip to nanital.. that trip was one of my very memorable n best trips in my life. best part of life.. its gud that u travel a lot n the best part is that u r writing them beautifully n poetically...keep it up buddy

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